Day 11: Peronne

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Day 11: Peronne

Kermit cloak on. Kermit cloak off.  Kermit cloak on.  Kermit cloak off.  That's how today went. 

I don't mind that it showered periodically, I just wish I could read the weather.  It seems that I would walk for a long time with the Kermit cloak on, whipped by the almost constant wind that skims these lands, and as soon as I decided to take it off that it would start to rain again and I would have to battle against the wind to get the cloak back on over me and The Devil and buttoned up.

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Day 10: Bapaume

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Day 10: Bapaume

After the rain comes sun...for a while then dark clouds and cold wind and a few drops of rain.  Then repeat and repeat and repeat.

I left Arras at 9.30am this morning in crisp air drowned in sunshine and a bounce in my step.  My body has recovered surprisingly well after yesterday's painful marathon.  My blisters didn't flare up at all today and it was only at the 24 kilometre mark that my heels really started to throb and my hips cramp

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Day 6: Wisques

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Day 6: Wisques

Today I found my own way between Licques and Wisques.  It meant I spent the day walking on country roads although I inadvertently picked up the main trail at the end.   The roads weren't busy but they were narrow and there was very little shoulder to walk on. I was always listening for cars so I could step off the road and onto the shoulder when I needed to, especially when traffic was coming in both directions at the same time.

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Day 5: Licques

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Day 5: Licques

Yes I had my first dog chase after me for a couple of hundred metres today when I passed by her farm house.  She was persistent and unperturbed by my growling and pointing Rodney, my right walking pole, at her. I kept walking away slowly facing her.  The last time I turned my back on a barking dog in Italy it lunged at me and bit a hole in my pants.

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Day 4: Guines

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Day 4: Guines

Yesterday's walking took me through farmland, fields of chopped grass and giant circular bales of hay as well as fields of corn but I also climbed Mont de Couple with beautiful views over to Wissant and sweeping around the countryside.

Before I left Wissant, I wandered through the morning market and bought some apricots and an apple and a baguette with ham and cheese for lunch which I strapped to the side of my backpack, the only place it would fit.  I sat in the dirt opposite a newly ploughed field in the blazing early afternoon sun and ate it.

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Day 3: Wissant

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Day 3: Wissant

For most of today, I have walked along the beach between Calais and Wissant.  I didn't want to go to Wissant which is west of Calais as it takes me further away from Rome, not closer.  I am conscious of needing to complete the journey from Calais to Rome within 90 days, my Schengen visa limit, and I am also conscius that my body, especially my knee, is already feeling the strain of long distance walking carrying my heavy backpack.  But Wissant is considered to be part of the main route of the Via Francigena as documented by Archbishop Sigeric the Serious and I didn't come on this pilgrimage because I wanted to do something easy.  So I walked to Wissant and I am so glad I did.

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Day 2: Dover

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Day 2: Dover

I started walking at 9am.  I estimated I was around 18 kilometres from Dover and that it would take me 6 hours to walk.  I wasn't too far wrong.  I arrived at 3.38pm and it turned out to be 21.97 kilometres.

Ironically, it would have taken only 20 minutes to drive. 

Blue skies and sunshine.  It was t-shirt only weather today and I am now sporting a good dose of sunburn to my face, arms and neck. 

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Day 1: Barham

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Day 1: Barham

And so blessed, my pilgrimage began with no fanfare, just that first step, then the next and the next and the next.

My first destination, Barham, is not directly on the Via Francigena trail.  I wanted to break up the walk to Dover and I discovered a lovely lady who offers a bed and breakfast free of charge to Pilgrims.  This meant the guidebook didn't provide instructions on how to get there so I didn't use it at all and found my way there using Pocket Earth, an offline map application on my iPad mini.  It is so awesome that it shows most off-road walking paths as well.

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