Day 22: Bar-sur-Aube

Day 22: Bar-sur-Aube

The house below (see photo) is what I will now think of as the House of Horror.  I think it looks a little sinister with the two deer heads stuck on it as decoration.  In reality is the Hebergement Pelerine in Brienne-le-Chateau, a house provided by the town for pilgrims to stay for a small fee.  Except, it appears, when there is a big festival on in town and they will let anyone stay there. 

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Reims to Brienne-le-Chateau in photos

Reims to Brienne-le-Chateau in photos

When I am walking, I regularly pause to look back at the path I have walked. Thirty minutes ago I was all the way back there and now I am all the over here. I can visualise myself back at the crest of that hill, tired and aching wondering how much longer it will take me to arrive. Sometimes its a miracle.  Sometimes its a victory. Always its incredible.  

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Day 18 to 21: the summary of Reims to Brienne-le-Chateau

Day 18 to 21: the summary of Reims to Brienne-le-Chateau

I am now in Brienne-le-Chateau.  Since I last posted, I have walked from Reims to Conde-sur-Marne to Chalons-en-Champagne to le-Meix-Tiercelin to here and have clocked more than 500 kilometres.  I have written individual blog posts for each day but haven't posted them as I have been staying in places that don't have internet connection; a gite, a youth hostel, a home for people with disabilities and now here in this hebergement pelerins where I have a room with two hospital beds and a mattress on the floor.  My life is stripped down to the bare necessities; shelter, food and some clothes on my back.

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Day 17: Rest day in Reims

Day 17: Rest day in Reims

Today I said good bye to Tent.  The weather is too cold for camping, it is dropping to around 6 degrees at night. I have been carrying Tent as an emergency accommodation option.  Although I used her in Guines where I camped for free, I quite possibly could have been accommodated in a chalet (read cabin in English) if I had asked.

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Day 16: Reims

Day 16: Reims

He leadeth me beside the still waters (Psalm 23).

I leadeth me beside the busy highways during peak hour (Kym mistake # 23).

If I followed the guidebook's suggestion, I would have walked 40 kilometres today.  24 kilometres to Hermonville and then 16 kilometres to Reims through farms and woodlands and vineyards and I am sure it would have been lovely but I really wanted to make it to Reims today in less than 40 kilometres. 

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Day 15: Corbeny

Day 15: Corbeny

No rain today and a lot of road walking which means dry boots and happy feet despite the pain and one new blister.

This morning after breakfast, I walked up to the old town to visit the cathedral and walk around one last time before leaving.  I discovered upon returning to my hotel, packing the final things into The Devil and putting the Red Beasts on my feet that I had to walk up and over the old town to get to the other side and in the direction of Corbeny.  Laon is on a hilltop.  Up and down is the equivalent of 32 floors.  I did it twice, once with the The Devil and once without.

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Day 14: Laon

Day 14: Laon

I woke up this morning to grey light filtering in between the gap in the curtains.  Without getting out of bed to even look at the sky, I checked the weather forecast on my phone; 90% chance of rain from 8am, 70% chance it would still be raining in the afternoon.  I got out of bed and looked out my window.  It was already raining lightly.  I glanced at my hiking boots. I could tell by the darkness of the red that they were still wet but inspected them anyway.  Outside. Wet.  Inside.  Wet.  Great.  I was going to be walking in the rain all day wearing wet boots that would get even wetter.  I wanted to cry. I felt tired tears pooling behind my eyes.  But then I wanted to laugh because somehow at the same time the situation seemed ridiculously funny.

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Day 13: Tergnier

Day 13: Tergnier

I left Trefcon this morning at 7.45am on quiet country roads surrounded by fog.

In the bushes and trees and fences lining the road into Etraillers were decorated with the pretty lacework of perfect spiderwebs wearing pearls of dew. 

It was another long day of walking, 34.5 kilometres today and most of it in the rain.  Unable to find my usual lunch eating venue, a bus stop, I spotted some kind of metal cabinet on a nature strip nestled between two shrubs that made the perfect bench and that is where I sat and ate my sandwich and apple as the rain continued to tumble down.  

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Day 12: Trefcon

Day 12: Trefcon

After the rain comes sun.  And after the rain comes a whole lot of mud and I spent a large part of today's walk either dodging it or trudging through it carefully so as not to slip and fall. But where there is mud and lake-sized puddles there are other wonders to be found; giant snails quietly glide between blades of grass, tiny brown frogs leap and dive beneath the puddles surface disappearing into the muddy spume and the giant orange slugs slither along the mud.

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Day 11: Peronne

Day 11: Peronne

Kermit cloak on. Kermit cloak off.  Kermit cloak on.  Kermit cloak off.  That's how today went. 

I don't mind that it showered periodically, I just wish I could read the weather.  It seems that I would walk for a long time with the Kermit cloak on, whipped by the almost constant wind that skims these lands, and as soon as I decided to take it off that it would start to rain again and I would have to battle against the wind to get the cloak back on over me and The Devil and buttoned up.

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