Day 10: Bapaume

Day 10: Bapaume

After the rain comes sun...for a while then dark clouds and cold wind and a few drops of rain.  Then repeat and repeat and repeat.

I left Arras at 9.30am this morning in crisp air drowned in sunshine and a bounce in my step.  My body has recovered surprisingly well after yesterday's painful marathon.  My blisters didn't flare up at all today and it was only at the 24 kilometre mark that my heels really started to throb and my hips cramp

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Day 6: Wisques

Day 6: Wisques

Today I found my own way between Licques and Wisques.  It meant I spent the day walking on country roads although I inadvertently picked up the main trail at the end.   The roads weren't busy but they were narrow and there was very little shoulder to walk on. I was always listening for cars so I could step off the road and onto the shoulder when I needed to, especially when traffic was coming in both directions at the same time.

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Day 5: Licques

Day 5: Licques

Yes I had my first dog chase after me for a couple of hundred metres today when I passed by her farm house.  She was persistent and unperturbed by my growling and pointing Rodney, my right walking pole, at her. I kept walking away slowly facing her.  The last time I turned my back on a barking dog in Italy it lunged at me and bit a hole in my pants.

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Day 4: Guines

Day 4: Guines

Yesterday's walking took me through farmland, fields of chopped grass and giant circular bales of hay as well as fields of corn but I also climbed Mont de Couple with beautiful views over to Wissant and sweeping around the countryside.

Before I left Wissant, I wandered through the morning market and bought some apricots and an apple and a baguette with ham and cheese for lunch which I strapped to the side of my backpack, the only place it would fit.  I sat in the dirt opposite a newly ploughed field in the blazing early afternoon sun and ate it.

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Day 3: Wissant

Day 3: Wissant

For most of today, I have walked along the beach between Calais and Wissant.  I didn't want to go to Wissant which is west of Calais as it takes me further away from Rome, not closer.  I am conscious of needing to complete the journey from Calais to Rome within 90 days, my Schengen visa limit, and I am also conscius that my body, especially my knee, is already feeling the strain of long distance walking carrying my heavy backpack.  But Wissant is considered to be part of the main route of the Via Francigena as documented by Archbishop Sigeric the Serious and I didn't come on this pilgrimage because I wanted to do something easy.  So I walked to Wissant and I am so glad I did.

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My cause - Saving Our Sea Turtles

My cause - Saving Our Sea Turtles

A turtle changed my life. On the second dive of my Open Water Scuba Diving course, I saw a turtle. A small, hawksbill turtle, gliding effortlessly through the water plane just metres ahead of me.  She looked into my eyes and I into hers and what passed between us I can only describe as love and ancient wisdom. I was hooked. I wanted to see more turtles so all of my holidays were planned around diving  

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The weight of the Devil

I stand on the scales with the Devil on my pack. After some quick math deducting my Devil-less body weight I determine that it weighs 12.5 kilos.

12.5 kilos!

If this were a normal holiday, I would be proud of how light I had packed for once. I like having choice of clothes to wear and will happily pack up to the airline checked luggage allowance if I can fit it into my normal travelling backpack that has wheels and has mostly been dragged behind me and only a handful of times carried on my back. This time 12.5 kilos is too heavy. Not by airline standards but because the Devil has no wheels and will be carried on my back for 2,000 kilometres.

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